1963 Fonseca’s Vintage Port
VW: I had this port more than 2 months ago while visiting relatives in Hong Kong and I still can’t get it out of my mind. But before talking about it I should first mention what I think about port.
For long, I find port a sweet, alcoholic drink with some medicinal taste. Most of them are so sweet that make me shiver on contact. They are like sweet grape juice mixed with vodka. Some of them are better and make an OK sipper while chatting with friends. But still they are simple and sweet… nothing much left to imagination. And then about 7-8 years ago I went to a tasting. There were this 1970 Taylor’s and 1970 Graham’s vintage port. First I didn’t know how a vinatge port is different from the ports that I have tried. Second, I was fully expecting the same sweet and alcoholic sensations going to hit me. I was instantly transformed while I first tasted the Taylor’s. I closed my eyes as I enjoyed the taste while I told myself “Wow, this is great wine!”. It was simply in the same level as the great wine I have been tasting that night. The sweetness doesn’t annoy me at all, in fact, it enhanced the whole experience. The port was still young and structured, tons of fruits left after all these years. The texture velvet and dense. The sweetness lengthened the finish. Then I quickly went over to get the Graham’s. Again, I was enthralled. Graham’s was sweeter but not a problem.. the sweetness translated to pure pleasure. Since then, vintage ports have been a part of my enjoyments.
I’ve read a lot about how good the Fonseca’s 63 is so my expectation was very high. Many people count it as one of the best and I definitely agree this is the best port at this price point after drinking it. For sure this is expensive in the absolute sense but given how expensive fine wine are going, this represent a relative bargain and worth every penny.
Now the taste… if you really need to describe it, it has pretty much everything you wanted. Coffee, toffee, caramel, dark chocolate, plums, dark berries… A 45 years old wine that tasted young and so full of life and fruits. Focused yet ever changing with lots of nuance. Sweet, full of flavours and yet so light. A wine of contradictions. Then the mouthfeel.. it is heavenly.. like thick but soft comfortable fabric, there is no seam… you just glide on it. This wine had no sign of fading. It is at it’s plateau…can’t get any better but will not fall off any soon. It performed better and better as time goes by, this should be decanted 2-3 hours to show it’s best.
But really I don’t think there is a need to describe the taste… A wine this good is not about the taste. It is an experience. Time stands still when you are in connection with it. Nothing else matters and you solely enjoy the experience it brings. You start to contemplate life… and understand how good life can be. Maybe the taste didn’t last long, but the moments, the memories stay with you long after the taste is gone. A wine like this is truly a celebration. Not just celebration of anything… but a celebration of life.
Posted by: vincentwu on January 24th, 2009 under Port, portugal.
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